'24 APR Jordan

Unfortunately, due to the war between Israel and Palestine and Iran getting involved, tourism in Jordan has dropped dramatically - so much my accommodation in Petra is shutting down for three months due to a lack of visitors. So now is a great time to visit Jordan if you want less traffic, people in the major tourist sites like Petra.

Hiring a car and driving is the best way to see Jordan, in my opinion - the highway roads are great. Just be careful driving in the cities as drivers are unpredictable and don’t indicate or stay in lanes. Also pay attention to the roadside signs for speed bumps - they’re not immediately visible or obvious and this took me by surprise once - learnt my lesson.

I drove: Amman Airport to Petra, Petra to Wadi Rum, Wadi Rum to Aqaba, Aqaba to Dead Sea, Dead Sea to Amman. The longest of these drives was Aqaba to Dead Sea which was around 3hrs.

Petra is truly astonishing! To think that today we travel by plane, train, and car, but ~2000 years ago, they were travelling by foot and horse (if you were lucky and had status). How they built these amazing sites astonishing. It’s a short walk (15min) from the entrance to The Treasury but it’s a 2.5hr walk to the Monastery site - and 2.5hrs back. A fast and fit person can do it in less time but if you want to be present or take photos like me, allow yourself 5-6hrs.

If you are doing a jeep safari in Wadi Rum, carry water with you – many of the camps where they sell trinkets, coffee, and tea do not have bottles of water. I feel like this is a missed revenue/profit opportunity. Wadi Rum is so quiet and peaceful, I extended my stay by an extra night.

Just had a great chat with a waiter at a bar in Aqaba - he’s of Palestinian descent, born in Jordan. They don’t panic when they see rockets overhead from Iran to Israel - for them it’s “free fireworks”. Hah!

Floating in the Dead Sea is quite an experience - there is so much salt in the water, it’s impossible to sink. I stayed at the Crown Plaza hotel for 121 JOD (breakfast included, access to the private beach on the Dead Sea, gym, sauna).

Some of my recommendations for places to eat in Jordan: https://maps.app.goo.gl/8NQ9C6PAmpUxH4117

'24 FEB Spain

Musings on my time in Spain

8wks in Barcelona and 2wks in Madrid, Granada, Malaga.

“Barcelona is like Europe, Madrid is España.”

Barcelona is dirty - there’s a lot of dogs and, unfortunately, the owners don’t train them well so you have dog poo/pee everywhere on the pavements. Never wear your shoes inside the house.

There are only two main parks or green spaces in Barcelona - Citudadela & Guell. Otherwise, there’s very little green patches of grass.

Barcelona has a LOT of petty crime - theft/burglary. Keep your possessions secure and close/lock your doors and windows.

My Spain list of restaurants, bars, and things to see: https://maps.app.goo.gl/UFoNF689pSfoFTzy9

Definitely check out a Flamenco show - the dance and music is truly impressive. I went to the show here: https://essentialflamenco.com

If visiting the Alhambra in Granada, make sure to go online and book your tickets well in advance. Even on 07 April, tickets are booked out until mid-May - imagine what it’ll be like in summer?

Try the Menu Del Dia = Menu Of The Day. It’s usually about 13-16 Euro for 3 courses + a drink - it’s good value!

'23 DEC Japan

Tips for Japan:

• A JR Railpass will help you catch Shinkansen and similar trains in/between cities - worth it when catching more than a few trains a week and/or long journeys

  • For local trains, get the Suica Card in your Apple Wallet (or a physical card - but why?!). Go to Wallet, + sign, Transit Card, and in Japan choose Suica - load money then tap & go

  • Suica Pass can also be used to pay at stores like 7/11, restaurants etc. - some, not all

  • Japan loves cash - carry some with you always

• Try to keep your hands warm during winter - it’ll make using chopsticks much easier

• Mobile SIM cards are very expensive when buying at the airport or in Japan (10GB ~ $50 AUD). Use a travel eSIM like Airalo - I can give you a referral code for a discount (yes, I get a small credit, also)

• Have your passport if intending to buy items over 5,000 JPY (roughly $50 AUD). Japan has an efficient system for tax-free shopping i.e. if your passport shows a tourist stamp, they’ll give you the tax-free price at the retail store/counter. Brilliant and no need to do a claim at the airport. Some more expensive items require you to scan your passport at customs on the way out - it’s very simple.

25 DEC 23

Landed in Tokyo, grabbed my JR Railpass and it’s straight on the bus to Hakuba to rendezvous with Justin, Sanae, Maki, and Antoine. Wishing Liam could have made it but unfortunately his health wasn’t 100% to join us. Big thanks to JJay & Sunny for collecting me at Nagano late in the evening. Sleep ASAP to get on the mountain 1st thing in the morning - I want fresh overnight powder!

Food, coffee, and bar recommendations for Japan can be found here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/y84Tq8uJnRLy6D258

05 JAN 24

I’ve been having too much fun with JJay, Sunny, Maki, and Antoine to keep writing. Now in Osaka solo for the rest of my time here so, have time to write. Will share a small photo-journal of the last 1.5 weeks.

The food in Osaka has been great. The transport system here can be a little tricky to navigate due to average signage so give yourself time to make trains.

'23 NOV Nepal

Day 1

We cross the border from Tibet into Nepal and the contrast is immediate. From technology and electronic systems and structure, order to chaos, manual, paper systems. Nepal is clearly poorer than India but the road from the Tibet border to Kathmandu is the worst road I’ve ever been on. An American tourist, now friend, in the same car as me has ridden Death Road in Bolivia on a mountain bike - he said this was worse!

Kathmandu is an assault on your senses - loud, different smells, and colourful - not all pretty. The journey from the border to Kathmandu takes about 6hrs - this is good for the dry season. Who knows how long it would take in the wet season.

Madan, my tour operator, meets me at the Hotel Lo Mustang for a briefing and we go to dinner at his local restaurant for a Nepali dhal bat - basically a thali. But instead of rice and a few curries, we get ground millet. It has no real flavour but they put hot ghee on it and that helps you break it up a little - the mutton curry is delicious!

Day 2

A visit to the Swoyambhu Mahachaitya where I take a lovely portrait of a lonely man (below) - one of my favourites on this trip. It’s not perfect but directing him with the language barrier didn’t seem easy. Heading to the airport for the flight to Lumbini, birthplace of the Buddha.

The flight is quick - 25min - and my driver takes me to my accommodation: Buddha Maya Gardens. There’s a lovely woman at the steps waiting for a taxi and I quickly ask for some advice about Lumbini before she heads off. She’s there with her father post-Annapurna trekking and made a short stop at Lumbini, also to visit the birthplace of Buddha.

Day 3

Queen Maya is Buddha’s mother - the Maya Devi Temple is the birthplace of the Buddha. I’m not very religious - in fact, I loathe religion for its segregation of society. My visit isn’t intended as a pilgrimage - I happen to be in Nepal and I figure I may as well visit this iconic location as Buddhist philosophy has played an important role in my life. My excitement to visit the Maya Devi Temple is quickly quashed by the noise and behaviour of people visiting the site. Despite signs (pictures and words) insisting on silence, there is little. ‘Security guards’ don’t do much to quieten attendees and what should be a place of peace, solitude, and spirituality is drowned out by loud, obnoxious Nepalese and tourists. Making things worse, monks use small microphone and speakers to loudly say prayers in different languages for their groups. This is arguably the most sacred of sites in Buddhism and there’s no respect for it at all - from locals, tour groups, and even monks. This is not the experience I’d hoped for. The temple itself is beautiful - it’s sparse, minimalist, without embellishment - I think Siddhartha Gautama (Buddha’s name before enlightenment) would have liked it.

Back at the hotel, Clara (the Spanish woman) tells me the temple is open from 5am so, I make a note to go at 6:30am tomorrow morning - beat the crowds and hopefully have a different kind of experience.

Walking the streets of Lumbini is an experience - some interesting things to see how new electricity/telecommunications cables are installed and a drunk uncle having an afternoon nap after too many beers.

Day 4

An early start at 6:30am and there is calm and quiet at the Maya Devi Temple - it’s far more peaceful and beautiful. I walk all the way from the temple to the World Peace Pagoda and make some stops at various sites that are donations from other countries like Vietnam, Thailand etc. These sites are beautifully presented - enhanced by listening to Sam Harris’ walking meditation podcasts. On the way to the Peace Pagoda, a beautiful Labrador comes to say hello - she joins me for what seems about 1-2hrs.

When at the Pagoda, she’s not allowed in - I figured she might have walked off. Instead, I find her waiting at the steps for me and she licks my foot when I return. Argh… I love dogs (and animals).

I feed her some crackers and she doesn’t want water. Saying bye is tough - she’s so cute!

By 10am I’ve done 16,000 steps and hit my kilojoule target for the day - a good morning.

Day 5

Heading to Pokhara this morning which I’ve heard is a beautiful scenic place.

'23 NOV Tibet

Day 1

Landed in Lhasa airport and the drive to the main city is absolutely beautiful – surrounded by gorgeous mountains and the river.

Needed a nap because of the altitude sickness, but got up in the afternoon to walk around Potala Square & take some photos of the palace. The more briskly I walk or climb stairs, the lighter my head feels and headache is worse.

As you walk around, you do notice the increased military and police presence but none of them have bothered me. I’ve got some great photos already and looking forward to recovering, rest, and going walkabout tomorrow.

Day 2

Walkabout: fail. Mostly bedridden – the altitude sickness gave me headaches, fatigue, and shortness of breath. I gave myself the day to try and acclimatise. There’s just one photo I wanted to take which I woke up for around 6 pm.

The altitude sickness was so bad I lost my appetite!!! Worst.

The hotel were kind enough to give me two oxygen cans in case I really needed it. I used one and took some altitude sickness tablets and I’m feeling better. I still don’t have an appetite and the head is feeling a little foggy, but definitely feeling better.

Day 3

Tour starts. Learnt that Tibet women are allowed multiple husbands. Children often don’t know who their biological father is - all the men are their fathers. Polyamory is a cultural norm here. That’s all I learned today…

Kidding.

We visited the Medicine Buddha temple and a traditional village where I tried Yak meat for the 1st time. It’s like beef but tougher. At the Sera Monastery we saw the debating monks - they debate philosophy and teachings and are very animated in their discussions - often looking like they’re angry and sternly making a point.

Day 4

Today we visited the Potala Palace - the winter residence of the Dalai Lama - when not in exile in India.

After the palace we went to Jokhang Temple which houses the holiest statue of the Buddha in Tibet inside. This is also where you see people prostrating - I didn’t feel right taking photos of them.

Day 5

Our journey towards Mt. Everest begins going through Gongbala Pass, viewing Yamdrok Lake, and seeing Mt. Naiqinkangsang. Overnight we stay in Shigatze - a large city (for Tibet) with a population of about 700k.

Day 6

Micro & Macro: when you look at a bunch of rocks 2m away it doesn’t look special. When looking at them from 2km away, the mountain range looks beautiful!

Lesson: in as many situations as possible, extract yourself out to get the ‘2km view’.

Time difference between China/Nepal is 2.15hrs. There is only one timezone in ALL of China - East to West.

Day 7

We go through Tsola Pass (4,600m) and Gyatsola Pass (5,248m) which is 48m above Everest Base Camp.

Then we descend to EBC and as we approach, the aura and magnitude of Mt. Qomolangma (aka Mt. Everest) increases - she’s beautiful! It’s hard to put in to words how amazing it is just to lay eyes on Mt. Everest. My first feelings are of gratitude for my ability to witness this amazing mountain. Then I think about the fact I’m at 5,200m altitude and the top of Everest is 8848.68m… another 3,648m higher. Astonishing. I’m struggling to do a light jog at this altitude and people have gone up that high - brilliant. I learn that the youngest to peak Everest is 13 and the oldest, 80. Incredible achievements!

Also, how does a bunch of dirt and rock with a little snow on it look so majestic? Is it the tales of people trying to summit? Or, perhaps, it’s the amount of people who’ve perished trying to summit which makes you… respect it? Either way, she’s beautiful. I’ve decided Qomolangma is a She… for gender-equity purposes. (joking)

Day 8

The come-down from EBC is real. We start heading toward the border with Nepal to a town called Gyirong. On the way we see two old-school Land Rovers who are making the journey from England to Singapore by land.

Eating a Veg Bobby for breakfast - chapathi, omelette, vegetable pie in a cute traditional tea house named An Do - birthplace of the Dalai Lama.

The most wonderful guide I could have asked for - Su Nam!

And a lovely tour group! Shoutout to my mate Kirill from Moscow (image 2 below).

'23 OCT Chengdu, China

I arrive into Chengdu Airport and am pleasantly surprised by how modern and efficient it is. A couple of tips before you land into China for the 1st time:

1. make sure you have Alipay & WeChat setup before you arrive - it’ll remove a lot of hassles and stress. Baidu Maps is useful but it’s only in Chinese so I didn’t bother.

2. there’s a couple of forms you’ll need to fill at the airport. Use a kiosk for this as I found getting on airport wifi tricky; again, mostly in Chinese.

As I’m driving from the airport to my accommodation, the scale of China dawns on me. Countless high-rise residential buildings as far as the eye can see. Think Sydney + Melbourne skyline, combined, x50. And Chengdu is a Tier 2 city – smaller than Beijing & Shanghai. The scale is… mind-boggling.

Day 1 was walking around downtown, a little shopping, and seeing the city. They’re clearly not used to seeing someone of Sri Lankan descent – lots of staring and I have been asked for a couple of selfies – fun.

The people here have been very friendly and have tried hard to overcome the language barrier – translation apps are your friend with lots of laughs along the way. Getting my hair cut started a little scary due to the language barrier but turned into a lot of laughs and fun - see photo of me & the posse from Star Barbers. (image 10)

Day 2 was a visit to the Panda resort/conservation area. I met a nice Korean tourist at my accommodation so we decided to do a little sightseeing together and I am grateful for Sohee’s company. We were fortunate to see lots of pandas despite the big crowds on a Monday and the bears are as silly and cute as I had imagined. There’s a beautiful traditional area in Chengdu where the Wenshu Monastery is with a market in the afternoon and plenty of cafes and stores selling artefacts. The evening was a trip to Jiuyan Bridge; a beautiful traditional looking bridge. Afterwards we happened upon an excellent restaurant with amazing ‘street food’ followed by a jazz bar where a local had a pet bird - he allowed it to sit on my shoulder – we made friends. (image 11)

Unfortunately, smoking is allowed indoors in China, so many bars and restaurants have this which make it difficult for those of us not accustomed to it anymore.

Day 3 is about finding a dumpling house so, I’m looking forward to that. Unfortunately, the fog is bad which makes it hard for me to take photos of the skyline.

Side Notes:

• Baidu maps tells you how long until the colour light changes

• There’s separate bicycle/scooter lanes so they don’t interfere with cars